The Inca-Trail to Machu Pichu

As I told you, the volcanoes don´t like me. On the way to Quito´s (Ecuador) airport, I Realized, already, that the heaven over the volcano is pretty dark.

05:00 p.m.

I arrived at the airport. No check-in, because ash from the volcano came down, and they expected to close the airport pretty soon.
05:30 p.m.


Someone from Aviancas (my airline) counter asked: "Is there anybody who booked the flight Bogota-Lima?" Me!!!! They told me there might be a chance to fly on another airline direct to Lima. Sounded good to me.
06:00 p.m.

 All international flights for the day are canceled, they took my address and told me to show up again the next morning
06:30 p.m.

 Back at the travel agency in Quito I tried to change my hotel and transportation and to figure out what I can do with my flight
07:00 p.m.


 The travel agency called me back saying there might still be a chance to fly out of Quito with a different airline. I immediately called Avianca to ask if I can change my ticket. Yes - I grabbed my luggage and headed back to the airport
07:30 p.m.

 At the ACES-counter (my new airline) they told me to wait again, they didn't know if the plane could take off, at least the plane started late out of Bogota
08:00 p.m.

 O.K. I checked in and they didn't charge me extra for my 50 KG of luggage (all the mountaineering gear).
10:00 p.m.
Take off to Lima - Surprise, Surprise
00:30 a.m. Arrival in Lima. Slept 3 hours on my luggage in the waiting area
03:30 a.m. Check in for the connection flight to Cusco
05:45 a.m. Believe it or not, we took off in time
07:30 a.m.

 Some people heard someone snoring really loudly in the hostal: Saphi De Andines
In the afternoon I quickly booked the Inca-trail
Inca-Trail to Machu Pichu (4 days)  
1st Day

06:00 o'clock via bus close to Machu Pichu. We had an easy first day, just walking for a couple of hours to a level of 2800 meters altitude, not doing much. At night I slept perfectly well outside, the tent was just too small for 2 people and luggage.

2nd Day

When we started in the morning, the first woman had strong headaches and stomach problems: Diagnosis: Food poisoning. I had started the day already with more than 20 KG, so I had to walk slowly, and accordingly took care of the victim (I took that much luggage by purpose, to get a better condition and acclimatization for the Aconcagua- expedition). After we had gained some 400 meters altitude, I took an additional 5 KG from an American girl, who had started too fast with too heavy of a pack. So we walked very slowly and it took us 5 ½ hours to get the 1400 meters up to the peak at 4200 meters. We weren't that exhausted, so I felt pretty well prepared for the expedition. The 2nd day is considered the hardest one, but after the peak we only had to go down Some 600 meters to a level of 3600 meters, where we set camp for the night. It was raining outside, and I just couldn't sleep well inside the tent.

3rd Day

Supposedly we had to walk up only 300 meters (from 3600 - 3900 meters), but It turned out to be a little more. But generally, the trek hadn't been difficult although we all got sick and tired of our guide, who couldn't tell us anything about what we saw along the way. If he told us something, we didn't care if it was true or not. And sometimes it is important to know if you can get water from a small stream or not. I, for example, ran out of water, because he told us it would be no problem getting some along the way. At night, another person was in trouble, with headaches, stomach problems, dehydration etc. Sure enough, I was next in line: no sleep, strong cold, totally hot and I had to go to the bathroom, I couldn't hold food and water anymore (and I didn't have medicine with me. After 2 months I didn't think I needed them anymore and I had left them in my other luggage. Diagnosis: dehydration and food poisoning.

4th Day - Machu Pichu

I couldn't take breakfast, and wasn't sure if I could even walk over to Machu Pichu. Yet, on an empty stomach, I walked for
1 ½ hours and suddenly saw Machu Pichu below. It was a real surprise because our guide didn't tell us how long it would take, like always. We were also lucky to have such magnificent view of Machu Pichu as it was awash in sunlight. But I still felt lousy, and I felt no joy as I had to go down to the restaurant area of Machu Pichu, close to the restrooms (I thought it is not appropriate to take my pants off in the middle of Machu Pichu). I was heavily dehydrated and started to drink some Coca Colas, hoping to get back on the road again, always staying near the restrooms. I had "Montezuma's Revenge", and there was nothing I could do against it. Later I walked quickly up to explore at least a bit of Machu Pichu. I took a few pictures and then went back to the restaurant area after 15 minutes; but let me tell you something about Machu Pichu, anyway:
It is estimated that Machu Pichu was built between 1420 - 1520.
1000 - 1500 people lived in some 300 huts at that time. Machu Pichu wasn't discovered by the Spaniards -- in 1911 the American, Hiram Bingham, discovered it. Still today, Machu Pichu is considered one of the greatest mysteries in the archaeological world! The latest research considers it to be a religious and astronomical center, but still no one knows exactly who lived there nor why?
Later on, we took the bus down to the train station. On the way down we met the Peruvian "Businessman of the Year": When the bus turned the first corner on the extremely steep slope down, we heard someone crying loudly; I thought it was a child in the front row. Next curve, same thing again. Next curve, most of the people and I finally figured out who it is: It was a 13 year old boy , not going along the road, instead taking shortcuts and then waiting for the bus, screaming: Good Bye He did this another 10-12 times, always ahead of the bus the 400meters down. Then, shortly before we arrived at the train station, he boarded the bus and asked for money. Many of the people and I normally gave money to the children we encountered, but this time everyone did: I assume the boy got at least $10. With one trip he probably earned almost what his father is usually earned in 1 month and we figured he was probably doing this a couple of times a day.


After 5 hours in an overstuffed train we arrived back in Cusco. Next morning I started freezing (Schuettelfrost) in my bed, and another hour later I felt t hot with fever, my heart pounding at a rate of 120 for 6 - 8 hours. I felt O.K. for the next 24 hours, before the same cycle repeated itself again. But the doctor said its just normal traveler's Diarrhea and that I was just a weak German. I had been concerned, because the cold and the hot flashes could also indicate the onset of malaria.

After 4 days I regained my health and took the bus to Puno at the lake of Titicaca.

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