It was a paid expedition, organized via the Austrian Alpine Association. Only I participated directly via the executing leader of the expedition, Hans Macella Gapp, who brought with him his assistance, Marc. Hans runs a in the European summer a mountain hut in Austria (Adamek-hut, Dachstein), the rest of the year is he organizing mountain tours in Chile. He used to be trainer of the Canadian Ski team for some 8 years. (info about Hans: www.villarrica.cl).

The group totaled 11 persons (incl. guides) from Austria, Germany, France, Switzerland and Slovenia. I came in at the 3 rd of December, the rest of the group on December 4th. But here the first problem occurred. Markus from Switzerland came in without luggage. His luggage remained in Amsterdam, and KLM decided to send it only 3 days later, on Tuesday, the 7th. But Markus had some stuff in his hand luggage, bought a sleeping bag in Santiago and just got a bid of equipment from everybody else (his luggage arrived 3 days later at the bottom of the mountain). So at night on December 4th we took it easy, had a couple of drinks in the hotel and went to bed early.

December 5th: Maipa Valley - San Jose

We took a 3 hours bus-ride into the Maipa-Valley, close to the bottom of San Jose (5900m) and Marmolejo (6100m). Because of the current snow condition and an existing mountain hut we decided to go up San Jose. Hans, our guide, had scheduled our tour that way, that we acclimatize in the Maipo Valley and only later go over to Aconcagua in Argentina.

December 6th: Up with the skis

Hans had organized skis for himself, and so we went up the mountain with the skis. The others walked up to our supposed 1. higher camp at 3.700 m. We left some food and other stuff up there, and than we skied down. Back at our base camp we had some soup and just enjoyed ourselves. But after 2 hours we got nervous, the others were still up, and it´s just ¾ of an hour down. Where are they? Shortly later Rudi and I started searching on the right side of our camp, the only direction we thought they could have walked down by accident. Up there, we saw: No way that they walked down there, it was a huge valley going down all the way to 2.500 Meters, and it was impossible to cross over to our side earlier. But, exactly that had happened, 2 had turned around and adjusted their mistake. The rest of the group went all the way down; and then up again. They´ve been pretty tired and I think they slept well that night. For some of the group this was a good lesson, they have been more cautious afterwards.

December 7th: 1999 More equipment to camp 1

Again up to Camp 1 with some equipment, we put up the tents and the others walked up higher to acclimatize further. I didn't go up higher, the day before and as well this day I didn't have a lot of power, but I have been acclimatized. I couldn't understand that, but just slowed down.

December 8th: A terrible night for me

We again walked up to Camp 1, but this time we slept up there. Since I came to the group last, I couldn't choose my tent partner and had to sleep in one tent with "Mr. No Comment", a complete human disaster (In a group with 11 people its always likely that there is someone you do not like, but this guy was so extremely negative, just nobody could handle it). So, sure enough, I woke up next morning with extremely cold feeds and have been wondering why, when I asleeped the night before I was perfectly fine. Then I realized that "Mr. NoComment had opened both entries to the tent (outside it had - 10 Grad Celsius). And sure enough, next thing, I realized that the frame of my glasses had broken. No wonder, that night I had only 1/3 of the really small tent, "Mr. No Comment" was just lying in the middle of the tent, not moving to the side.

I decided that this was enough. I had forecasted problems with this guy, and had told Hans to take an extra tent up. So, it was his deal, either taking this guy in his tent or getting an extra tent. He made the mistake not to get an extra tent (he went down to a lower camp after 1 night with the guy). And I shared the rest of my time at San Jose with Silvia, a Gynecologist from Germany, and had no problems anymore.

December 9th: Camp II at 4.200 Meters

We moved the tents higher to camp 2 at a level of 4.200 Meters and had an acclimatization hike up to 4.600 Meters. By that time I didn't use the skis anymore, it felt it was easier for me to walk up. But, generally, I felt much better now, and walked up very easy (only later did I realize that I had taken antibiotics until the 2nd of December, which probably has been the reason for my weakness.

December 10th: It´s time for the peak

That should have been the 1st day to try to go up to the peak. But at 6 pm the night before it had started snowing, it had some 25 cm new snow by the next day and it didn't stop snowing. We had to stay in the tent most of the day. In the afternoon we walked up to 4.600 Meters again, just to do something. We decided to wait for the next day, and see at 07:00 o clock if we can go at least a bit higher up. We expected already that we do not have a chance any more to go up to the peak, not with fresh snow and storms up there.

December 11th: Finally better weather

Suddenly at 05:00 o'clock Fritz from Vienna came to our tent: "Hurry up, we go, once we are ready!" Silvia and I couldn't understand that, because we had scheduled 07:00 o'clock the day before. I had had light headache in the night, because I didn't drink much the day before (by purpose, who likes to go out in the snow storm all the time). So, for me, it was necessary first to drink a lot, and so I decided no to go up. I made some tea for Silvia, who went up with the others.

So, 8 of us went up the mountain. Markus went up first and came to the level of 5.400 Meters, the others turned around 70 or 80 meters lower. 02:00 o'clock was the time we had agreed before to meet in camp 2 again. I had put down our tent already, before it started snowing again. The others put their stuff together and we skied/ walked down to base camp. Since this was purely preparation for Aconcagua we didn't have more reserve days for the peak. And it wouldn't have helped, the weather didn't get better the next 2 days. Just more snow. When Markus picked up his luggage a couple of days before he brought 1 bottle of wine with him, which the 11 of us excitedly drunk for dinner.

December 12th: Back to Santiago

Early in the morning the "arrieros" and their pack animals picked our luggage and we went back to Chile. The "arrieros" had to be back in their hometown at that day for the president election. If they wouldn't show up they would have to pay either a big fine or go straight to jail. Every adult has to go to the elections in Chile. On the way down we visited the local hot springs. But I shouldn't have done that. I had tried to repair my frame, and now had lost 1 glass in the water, which I couldn't find anymore. That meant: 3 weeks with sunglasses, and should have more consequences later.

December 13th: Argentina is waiting

At 08:00 am Hans, Marc and I started with a van full of food and equipment. The others went with a minibus. We had no problems and arrived in Los Penitentes (Puente de Inca) at 01:00 pm. But the others just didn't show up. At 03:00 pm their busdriver came in with another bus. He told us that the Argentineans do not let his bus pass the border, supposedly because of some missing insurance papers. But there have been lot of problems on that border before, and it has something to do with the Argentineans, which do not like the climbers coming in from Chile. They would like to get that tourism business just for themselves. So, a local from Los Penitentes drove back to the boarder to pick them up. When they came in 1/2 hour later they just changed cars and we all drove down to Mendoza (163 km) in 1 van. We had to pick up in Mendoza our climbing permit personally. We filled out the papers (who to inform if we are death etc. ) But we still do not understand why its necessary to be there personally. By 10:30 p.m. we´ve been finally be back in Los Penitentes, and packed our stuff together for the mules. There was still some power leftover to celebrate Rudis birthday with some beer.

14th December: A long, long way to base camp

We didn't have many drinks the night before. And we knew, why: From the park entrance of Aconcagua to the base camp of Aconcagua we had some 36 km in front of us, and had to go up from 2.800 Meters Altitude to 4.300 Meters. And this in 1 day, not 2. I walked up with Markus, and it took us 8 3/4 hours, we arrived shortly after the guides. Our stuff was there, but we had significant problems to get the kitchen tent up, and so dinner had to wait till 10 p.m. Some have been almost dying from hunger, but Markus and I have been fine. I had 3 Salamis and 2 cans of tuna with me in my backpack: You want to be on the safe side! I slept very well that night, and had no problems with the altitude.

December 15th: Rest necessary

We took it very easy next day and had only a short walk up scheduled for 5 pm. By that time the weather didn't look that good anymore. We walked up anyway, straight into a thunderstorm. Most of us felt already the electricity in the air on our fingers/polls. So, down as fast as possible. I had lots of bad experience with thunderstorms that summer around our Zillertal mountain hut and walked down pretty fast with Rudi, who got hit by thunder a couple of years before, and barely survived it. We went straight to one of the Pubs in the base camp to have a beer.

December 16th: Time to acclimatize further

Markus and I decided to bring a tent up to camp II at Nido de Condores (5.400 Meters). The others decided to bring stuff first to camp Canada, at 4.950 Meter. Afterwards we all went back to base camp. The mood of the group that day was pretty bad: the 2 guides showed problems with the altitude, and Mark got additionally diarrhea.

December 17th/18th: Good sleep at 5.400 Meters

Up again, but this time Markus and I stayed up at Nido de Condores (5.400 Meters) and the others at Camp Canada. Markus melted snow and we had a nice dinner: Tortellini with lots of Salami and cheese. We are both no nutricions, and enjoyed the heavy food. Up there we had only a light storm and I slept very well. I had only a very mild pressure at the beginning of the night, but I didn't get any headache. So I decided that I will try the peak from Nido de Condores, not from base camp as Hans suggested to us. I thought it is just too long from base camp ( 2660 Meters difference in altitude). The others have been in a strong storm at camp Canada (the location is pretty exposed), and most of them didn't sleep well that night. Markus and I went further up that day to Camp Berlin (5.850 m), and than down to base camp. We met some of the others on the way down, who went up to Berlin besides a sleepness night.

December 19th: It´s time to get ready

We had another, really necessary restday. In the afternoon we've been sitting together, discussing the further strategy. 6 of us decided to try to go to the peak direct from base camp next morning, 4 others and I decided to go up to Nido de Condores, sleep there 1 night and try to go to the peak the day after. Later we went over to the hotel close to base camp, to get a nice sandwich with some meat. Most of us had some problems to survive with the simple Pasta and instant soup served in our camp.

December 20th / 21st: Storm, Storm, Storm

The team for the peak had breakfast at 04:00 o clock, and started up the mountains at 05:00 o clock. The rest started to go to Nido de Condores at 09:00 o clock. We have been in radio contact with the others: They went up to Berlin, but couldn't go up further, the storm was too strong. In the afternoon they turned around, down to base.

The storm came down, and the team up at Nido de Condores had to go in their tents early. The night wasn't good, almost no sleep. The storm was really strong and nobody thought of a peak day, when daylight came. At 10:00 o clock the storm got even stronger. We´ve been barely able to stand up when we decided to wait till 11:00 am and then break down the tents and descend lower with the hope of better conditions - we didn't know how the weather was there, our radio connection to the base camp didn't work.

At 11:00 o clock the weather started to get better, but we decided to go down anyway:
- In my tent the zippér of the absys didn't work anymore
- Schersch and Inge had snow in the tent and tons of fresh snow under the tent
- and Mark had gotten freezings on his tooth

It was a chaos up there, and we just had to go down. 1 1/2 hours later I arrived at base camp, together with Mark, who was running down the mountain, because of his freezing. But down at base, his feets have been pretty much O.K.
- partly because the fast descend helped his blood circulation.

Now we´ve been in front of a difficult decision: Give totally up or try to go up to the peak from the base camp, and that without a restday. Schersch und Inge decided to give up. The rest of the group decided to go to the peak next day, if the weather looks somehow O.K. Wake-up call at 06:00 o clock. If the weather wouldn´t be O.K. again, we would have to think if we would risk to go on the 23rd, which could result in problems for the other participants, who all had a flight back on the 25th, out of Santiago de Chile.

December 22nd: D-Day

I had made up my mind the day before to go up with the rest of the group next day. But I wasn't sure if I would try to go up to the peak, I wasn't sure if I had the power for that. And I had an additional disadvantage: All my stuff was down at basecamp, I would have to carry crampons, ice axe etc. up again, the others had that stuff stored in the one remaining tent at Nido de Condores. So I thought just to go with them, and if I wouldn´t feel very fit, I would just bringing down some of the equipment from Nido de Condores.

We started at 07:00 am and have been up at Nido de Concores in only 3 1/2 hours. I felt very well, changed quickly to my lighter backpack (had been still up there), and decided to give it a try. It took us another 1 1/2 hours to get up to camp Berlin. There the group split up. Hans, Mark, Silvia, Markus and I went ahead, the rest of the group slowed down. At 6.300 Meters we put the crampons on, and at 6.450 Meters a second time. That time I had problems to get them on, don't ask me why. The others went ahead. After going up very easy so far, I started having problems finding a rhythm for myself. At 6.680 Meters I met the others again, but they just finished their break when I arrived. I asked Mark, the assistent guide, if he could wait 3 - 4 minutes, to go further up together with me, but it was his 5th time on Aconcagua, and he never has been able to reach the peak. And he was only interested to get up by himself. So, I went further up by myself, with some mental support from Markus.

But at around 6.820 Meters, shortly before the peak (6.960 Meters) I thought about turning around:
- it was already 06:20 pm
- it would get dark in 1 1/2 hours
- I had no normal glasses
- And expected that I had to descend alone, since the guides didn't care about their clients; Markus seemed pretty exhausted, and Silvia was really strong that day but had to fight enough with herself. And with colder weather it would be difficult to wait - it would take another 1
-1 1/2 hours to the peak
- and I wasn't sure how strong I would be on the way down, after 12 hours up at this altitude with just 2 liters of water I
wasn't sure if I get effects of dehydration

I´m a safety first - guy in the mountains and so I decided to turn around. That way I will probably not get that many peaks, but for me a peak is not worth that much.

That day I reached more than I expected before, and I've been happy with it. And that didn't change afterwards. On the way down I met first Rudi, than Andre. They have been 1 and 1 1/2 hours behind me. They´ve been still on their way up and have been determined to go up to the peak, whatever it costs.

So I went all the way down to base camp. Shortly before the camp it got dark, and sure enough, I took a wrong turn, and landed in a pretty dangerous rock area. I considered already a night up there, but than I found a way out and reached camp at 10:30 pm. Markus and Mark came in 1/2 hour later. Silvia, Markus, Mark and Hans made it to the peak. Hans and Rudi have been still on the way up, when they moved down. Slowly all the others came in. Only Rudi and Andre have been missing. They finally came in at 03:30 am. They made it to the peak at 08:30 p.m., but it took them centuries to get down, Andre has been totally exhausted already on the way up, and Rudi helped him to get down (that's the opposite approach to Safety first, but that time it has been successful).

December 23rd: Back to Puente del Inca

After a 07:30 wake-up call - everybody was still dead - we packed our stuff together. The mules would take most of our stuff and pass us on the way down. We left camp at 12:00 o clock to descend the 36 km down to the park exit. It took us roughly 6 hours to arrive down there, and at that time my (and most others') muscles finally started to complain, and to hurt pretty heavily. After another 45 minutes wait for Mr. NoComment we finally got back to the hotel at 07:30, looking forward for a nice steak and finally a bed again (by that time everybody hated the tent).

December 24th: Feliz Navidad

After a 09:30 breakfast we got our stuff together and some of us decided on a "Fruehschoppen" (a Sunday tradition in Germany - a beer in the morning or two .....).

Afterwards we drove quickly up to the famous "Puente del Inca", a natural bridge with enclosed hot springs. But it was just another South American Example of having something great, but not using it well (for example holding it clean).

In the afternoon we took the bus to Los Andes, and from there we drove to Hosteria El Copihue, a nice resort. We had dinner and then ordered a couple of bottles of wine to the pool. We had a swim and celebrated Christmas on the pool with wine and cigarres.

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